Doing manual

[pasknucklehead]

Okay, I'm into the fun time of manual mode. I went out this evening to take some snow photos. So here's my question.
Say for instance, to get the correct exposure in manual mode, I had to set the aperture and shutter at their required settings to get what the meter is saying a "correct exposure". Now since I know that it is 18% gray, what must I do then to make sure my snow comes out right? Am I correct in just making the aperture or shutter settings whichever, to show that it is now metering on the plus side? I like this stuff now, at least I have to start using my brain before it turns completely to mush. :)Thanks in advance.
DC

[coffee]

I don't know much about snow, but why would you have to meter on the plus side? This is how I would do it. Since it's snow I would use my gray card to custom the White Balance, then figure out what mode I will shoot in. Normally it's aperture or M in this case. Figure what Aperture I'm going to use. Let the camera set the Shutter. Then is post I would use that custom WB I shot first to use in the other shots if I hadn't already set it in the camera.

[pasknucklehead]

I really appreciate the quick response to my question, but "what?"
Can you tell I am new to the digital world? I just have always heard that you have to make sure the camera is set to a higher exposure because the snow will come out gray and not bright white because the camera is seeing it as 18% gray. I don't know how to preset yet, I do have a gray card, haven't learned to use it, that's why I said "what"? Can you explain more in detail? Dc

[coffee]

Use the gray card and take a shot in the same light you will have in your shots. Then use that shot in as your Custom White Balance. Read your camera manual to find out how to set this in camera. If you don't want to set the WB in camera, then do it in Post Processing. Takeing a shot with the gray card in the same lighting as your shots you are going to be taken, then using that for your WB will insure that you are averaging your shots to an 18% gray.

Proper exposure is vital certainly, but so is getting the correct WB. If you overexpose bright snow, it's going to get blownout. That's why I would expose to "0", and Use your gray card for C. WB. Check the histogram after a shot or two to make sure exposure is good.

[angierae]

Hey DC,

I did a little check on snow photography tips and most of them are saying that the easiest way to compensate is to move your meter to +1. Joseph's idea also sounds like it would work although I'm rather lazy and tend to leave my WB on auto. I find I don't have a lot of time to fiddle with tonnes of settings when photographing wildlife.

When I'm shooting snow there's a couple situations that I prefer. They limit necessary camera fiddling yet leave the option still open. One is side lighting. This usually gives enough natural light to the scene to make the snow brilliant yet it lends shadows to it to make it detailed instead of just a sheet. I try not to backlight since that can cause some scary reflections and blowouts off hills and banks, same can be said for front light. I also prefer, contrary to the popular view, to photograph snow on slightly cloudy days. Sure I don't get the brightest shots and sometimes the blue tones even make their sinister appearance but I find that a little grey and blue, when paired with the right composition, give you a characteristic winter shot.

It all comes down to preferance. I understand you want to learn to how to use all your camera settings while I like letting nature decide the majority of my photo's. Still, figured this might help ya a bit :P

[jerryph]

White balance and proper exposure are 2 separate things. Where WB is to set the proper tones so that colours appear as they are supposed to in relation to the current light temperature of the current conditions, and exposure is just that... getting the proper amount of light on to the sensor so that you have a properly exposed picture.

WB in general I put on auto and adjust in post process because I only shoot in RAW. Exposure is another thing

Now it is IMPOSSIBLE to just lock the camera into 1 position and leave it there and expect to get consistently good exposures... each picture will have difference requirements. Sometimes centering the meter is required and other times it has to have some compensation in there due to the conditions.

I bought a DVD (http://www.photoshopcafe.com/video/products/zones.htm) that explained the ZONE SYSTEM in precise detail and this explains it better than most other sources. However, if you google ZONE SYSTEM, look for the digital camera specific ones and read, read, read away. :)

[pasknucklehead]

Oh, so much more to learn. I really appreciate all the imput. Thanks my new friends. Out in the snow again tomorrow...DC

[pasknucklehead]

Thank you, I will certainly give the old gray card a try. DC

[coffee]

Thank you, I will certainly give the old gray card a try. DC

Let's see some of your snow shots.

[pasknucklehead]

Okay, I will post some snow photos as soon as I figure out how to do it...dc:D

[LensBaby]

I always have to use at least a +1 exposure and sometimes even a +2 to get my snow images to come out white.