View Full Version : Another thing I wish I could figure out.
LensBaby
12-19-2007, 03:31 PM
These were taken indoors...it was sooo dark in there. I am still a little unsure of how to obtain an action photo indoors when it is dark. Here are some of my examples ( i always have to resize my photos so small)
gjtoth
12-19-2007, 03:36 PM
These were taken indoors...it was sooo dark in there. I am still a little unsure of how to obtain an action photo indoors when it is dark. Here are some of my examples ( i always have to resize my photos so small)
This just a stab at it but: Increased ISO and faster shutter speed? Maybe? Sorta? Kinda? :)
LensBaby
12-19-2007, 03:55 PM
Yeah I know I tried it and tried it, but nothing would work right. I was just happy that something showed up!
Snappers
12-19-2007, 07:59 PM
Not sure myself on that one yet. They are nice shots though even without the motion.
skeuos
01-10-2009, 05:44 PM
Basically, in my novice understanding, it's fast glass, long lens, and high ISO. Shoot in manual if necessary to maintain a short enough exposure to freeze motion and keep the aperture wide open.
Those came out pretty nicely for a first try!
LensBaby
01-10-2009, 09:54 PM
Thanks for the info. THat post was VERY VERY OLD. It will be cool for others to read the answer though.
jerryph
01-11-2009, 08:24 PM
Actually, "fast glass" is any lens that can do aperture of F/2.8 or numerically less. The size of the front element has NOTHING to do with defining if it is fast or not... however, lenses that are able to get larger apertures often are 70mm and larger... but thats no guarantee of anything. My 30mm F/1.4 is a meager 52mm... and about the fastest lens on the market you can buy without going to the exotics.
but you dont need fast glass to shoot indoor events any how f5.6 or even f6.7 is ample>>>It's also woth remembering you do not always need telephoto lenses, some of the best sport images are documented on wide angle ' if you can get close to the action
Yes, often you often will need bigger apertures. Apertures of F/6.7 vs F/2.8 will give you a difference of 2 and 1/2 stops more light and unless you are doing outdoor daytime sports, that F/6.7 is going to be simply impossible for the simple reason that your shutter speed will be too slow and just give you blurry pics.
Let's say that you wanted to freeze thatfast motion. To get it, you need a minimum of 1/125th... but if you are indoors, or in a darker venue, to maintain that 1/125th speed will require some heavy artillery.
To maintain 1/125th at ISO 200 and F/2.8 (which is NOTHING aggressive, BTW), you would need a camera that could also do:
To maintain that shutter speed you could set the camera to:
ISO 200 - F/2.8
ISO 400 - F/4 (+1 stop)
ISO 800 - F/5.6 (+one more stop)
ISO 1100 - F/6.7 (+ a 1/2 stop)
Does your camera do clean ISO 1100 or higher? If not, then in this case, you would need that fast lens just to get the shot.
Most cameras already start to introduce noise at ISO 400, so that 2.5 stops is an amazing amount of light more and to say in a blanket manner that any aperture "is ample" is not accurate. It really will depends on the situation, in the end. There are no fixed conditions for all shots and saying "this" aperture should be ok... is just not quite right. :)
Also... I do not know many indoor baseball diamonds or hockey rings or soccer fields that will let you get close enough to use a 50mm lens... at least enough to fill a picture with 1-2 players and still be safely out of their way.
LensBaby
01-11-2009, 08:36 PM
Oh anbd just to finalise fast wide angles are very good for super sport images
' whats up bud had your toes stepped on '
OK this was a RUDE statement. Jerry does not feel his toes are being stepped on. Let me tell you something about Jerry....He is the most helpful person on this forum. He is full of information (and great information at that) He has helped me out many times!!!
jerryph
01-11-2009, 08:54 PM
Oh and for this statement lol >
Does your camera do clean ISO 1100 or higher? If not, then in this case, you would need that fast lens just to get the shot.
My camera does 1/8000 you fool lol Have you not heard of high speed 3200 emulsion..?
Si.
Wooooo... ISO 8000, huh (or were you saying your camera does 1/8000th of a second shutter speeds that has NOTHING to do with what we were talking about)? Mine does ISO 25,600. I bet that at ISO 8000, the pics are so dirty as being unusable. I also bet that your ISO 1100 is NOT as clean as your base ISO.
If what you meant to say was that you could use a shutter speed of 1/8000th AND an aperture of F/6.7 duing an INDOOR low light scenario, do't worry, I hear drugs usually wear off in a few hours.
BTW, I want a link from you about this high sped emulsion (good God that made me laugh, thanks so much). You may save a ittle face with everyone here who is watching and laughing at your comments.
You very obviously need to learn a little courtesy as well as the basics of photography, it seems.
Cool your jets young man. If you act like a child, be prepared to be treated like one.
Oh... judging by your reaction and name calling... it seems I stepped on YOUR toes, huh? Good God but you sound like a 13 year old that has just been chastised... lol
jerryph
01-11-2009, 09:55 PM
I do NOT see the words "high speed emulsion" anywhere in this article. I also think that the 2nd paragraph is more enlightening, though:
"...a medium emulsion, to the 400 ASA, a very sensitive, grainy and wide exposure latitude emulsion. A recent development in monochrome emulsions has been chromogenic film in which the silver grains are replaced by a colour dye during the chemical development stage. In these films the grain size can be kept very small while dramatic sensitivity to light is achieved (about 1600 ASA)."
BTW, you did know that this article is at least 20 or more years old?
The term 'Chromogenic" is nothing new. It comes from the way in which the colour (chromatic) dyes are generated during the development process. It has nothing to do with making shooting in low light at smaller apertures possible. Let's stick to the facts.
Let's talk facts... ASA 1600 film was publicly available in the 1980s if not earlier. I do NOT see you talking about this, nor about how you could "push" that to higher ISOs needed to shoot in low light situations that even a lens that had a F/2.8 aperture would help with... much less your previously mentioned F/6.7, which is 2.5 stops DARKER.
All I am seeing is a lot of smoke and mirrors, NO fact.
Now, I am not bitter, but YOU sure have an attitude and do spout a LOT of out and out BAD information, however, instead of trying to present FACTS, you prefer to call people fool and bud and are all piss and vinegar, and STILL prove nothing.
Now FACTS ALONE, explain to me how ASA 400 film can be used in an environment such as indoor sports, that require ISO 3200 or higher (I have many examples of ISO 3200 and one at ISO 6400 just to get 1/500th of a second shutter speeds at F/2.8)?
Oh, just so you don't think, film is a wonderful medium, nothing against it and this is not a film vs digital discussion. You spouted a lot of bad advice, got mad when called out on it, and rather than admit all that you typed was gobeldy-gook, prefer to be evasive and insulting.
Fine, here is your chance to prove me wrong... show me a pic that YOU took WITH PROOF. I will do the same. Someone with over 13 years of experience SURELY has ONE or TWO pics with proof, yes? By proof, I mean EXIF data AND a picture together.
Please, show me a picture that YOU took in a poorly light sports complex with a F/6.7 aperture and your high emulsion film (which has a top end ASA of 400 or *maybe* ISO 1600, BTW).
At this point... experience talks, and BS walks.
Here are my pictures, while we are waiting for yours:
ISO 3200 in an indoor arena at F/5 and 1/500th:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3098/3142794588_d69d3080c2.jpg
Here is the EXIF data (http://flickr.com/photos/jerryph/3142794588/meta/), proof that I am being honest.
ISO 6400in an indoor arena at F/2.8 and 1/500th:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3244/3142794536_1f80259cb5.jpg
Here is the EXIF data (http://flickr.com/photos/jerryph/3142794536/meta/in/photostream), proof that I am being honest.
The ball is in your court. No insults, no BS, just pics and proof.
I want you to show me how you can take a pic in a location that obliges you to go to very high ISO, fast shutter speeds and large apertures and then tell me that you can do the same at F/6.7 WITHOUT getting motion blur.
LensBaby
01-11-2009, 10:57 PM
You must be a bitter jealous person or something Jerry . oh i see you run this forum then? (COMMENT FROM DIRECTSHOOTER)
Ok nobody here RUNS the forum, but admin. I will offer my comments though, and say this....take a look at the people who take the time out of their busy schedules to stop in and post something here or there. Look at the people that have posted over 1,000 or even more posts so far, and then looks at the other group members. ( I run a company, homeschool 3 of my 4 kids, go to school FULL time myself, and run the household. I have over 2,000 posts on here) I think this shows dedication to the Proud Photography Forums, and yes in a way these members do RUN the group, because the are keeping the posts going, and not stale. You have to think about what keeps a site up and going.....VISITORS and also INTERACTION between members. Without that you will not have a forum but just a dead place on the web. The active members on this site keep this site very informative and a very helpful and friendly place. I want this forum to remain friendly and active, and this type of "talk" does not support that. Please be kind to all members, even if you disagree with something. We are going to have disagreements, and there is nothing you can do about that, but you can remain acting like an adult.
admin
01-12-2009, 07:47 AM
Just to finalize this - a TROLL that called himself "directshooter" has been removed from the forum. Please try not to get yourself dragged into inflammatory discussions with people with no substance just a lot of steam. Report them to us ASAP and they'll be dealt with promptly.
Thanks to those who reported him.
LensBaby
01-12-2009, 06:21 PM
Just to finalize this - a TROLL that called himself "directshooter" has been removed from the forum. Please try not to get yourself dragged into inflammatory discussions with people with no substance just a lot of steam. Report them to us ASAP and they'll be dealt with promptly.
Thanks to those who reported him.
Thanks admin!
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